Skip to main content

Magnificent Marina

The Marina beach in Chennai extends from Fort St George in the north to Light House in the south, about 4 kms long. Called South Beach Road, now Kamarajar Salai, the road was constructed in 1846. As my house is located in the south, my walk along the beach road actually starts from Light House to northwards. So walk along with me from south to north on the  South Beach road, with the Bay of Bengal to your right. 

என்ன, நடக்க ஆரம்பிக்கலாமா?


We commence our walk with the imposing building of All India Radio on the left. This is the first major building after Santhome Basilica down south. The AIR moved here in 1954 and to the more handsome building in the front in 1963. Just two years after BBC started in UK, AIR Madras commenced its broadcast in 1924 in Egmore. Then it moved to Rippon buildings in Poonamalee High road for 9 years. Later AIR reopened in 1938 in Marshalls Road, Egmore and finally to Marina.

On the opposite side (sea side) is the light house. Madras' first lighthouse was built in 1796 on the roof of what is now known as Fort Museum. Later, in 1841 the lighthouse was shifted to High Court complex. In 1894 the third lighthouse was established on top of High Court building, 175 feet high from sealevel. This functioned till 1970 when it was shifted to Marina opposite AIR.

Next to AIR stands the Forensic Science Department and the magnificent offices of Police HQ. This piece of ornament in white was constructed in 1839. The Madras Police was formalised in 1858 and its HQ moved here in 1863. This elegant structure was to be demolished in 1993 and a 10-storey highrise built in its place. Heritage lovers and conservationists fought in the court and the edifice survived. The building was renovated in 1998 at a cost of 1.5 crore. One must see it in the night, with all its lights on - a cynosure of all eyes. A grand spectacle.

Next comes the Edward Elliots road junction (now, Dr Radhakrishnan salai). A grand statue of Gandhiji - in march to Dandi style - adorns the other side (beach side). This marvelous piece of artwork was sculpted by Roy Choudhury. He was the first Indian Principal of the Madras School of Arts and Crafts. Next to the Edward Elliots Road junction is the Queen Mary's College (for women); it opened in July 1914. A statue of Queen Mary is still prominently displayed inside. Its founder was a Miss de la Hey whose mission was in the emancipation of women in South India. The college still follows this. It opened with just 37 students in Capper House of the complex. This Capper house was demolished in 2002-03, by you know who, but a strong sit-in protest by the Chennai college girls saved the other buildings. A new Govt Secretariat building was planned here but public protests (do you remember these?) saved the heritge site.

Then comes the Ice house, now known as Swami Vivekananda Illam. Blocks of ice were shipped from Boston USA for local consumption in Madras and this Ice house was constructed in 1840 to store the blocks of ice. Ice was sold in Madras for 8 annas (50 paise) a kg!

But, by 1874 the ice business started failing, and the building was purchased by one Bilagari Iyengar as his residence. Swami Vivekananda, on his return from USA in 1897, stayed here for 9 days. Ramakrishna movement in South India started from this place. After Bilagiri Iyengar's death in 1902, the building was auctioned and passed many hands; in 1930 it was acquired by Govt. Lady Willington Teachers Training College was founded in 1922 and the ice-house became its hostel from 1930. Now this college  is renamed as Lady Willington Institute of Advanced Study in Education and is located next to Vivekananda Illam on the south.When the Vivekananda Centenary was celebrated in 1963, the ice-house was re-named as Vivekananda Illam and in 1997 the Govt gifted the building to Ramakrishna Mission.

Adjoining the Vivekananda Illam is the Annie Besant Road, previously called Peters Road. A statue of Annie Besant adorns the other side of this junction. After Besant road junction comes the Slum Clearance Board office and Thanthai Periyar Maaligai.

Next is the Examination Hall (1930 vintage) of the Madras University. Now the examination hall is named as The Oriental Research Institute for the classical languages. It was built in 1930. Just before the examination hall is the Eastern Gate (தோரண வாசல்) of Sri Parthasarathy Perumal Koil. You can walk to the famous temple through this Thorana Vaasal (1 km).

Crossing the examination Hall, we find the MRTS railway station of Tiruvallikkeni and next is the local headquarters of the Bharat Scout and Guides. This is inside a tree-shaded Lady Wenlock Park. Governor Wenlock developed the Scout movement in 1890s. It was Annie Besant once again who played a significant part in getting Indian scouting underway.

North side of Scouts HQ lies the Pycrofts Road (now Bharathi Salai), the gateway toTiruvallikkeni.  At the junction of Pycrofts road and beach road, the statue of Kannagi adorns. This statue was 'removed' one night, shifted to the museum by AIADMK Govt, but when DMK govt regained power, reinstalled the தமிழர் பண்பாட்டு சின்னம் with much fanfare. Pycrofts road is a veritable treasure trove, a true khazana for second-hand book lovers. Visit the road after 3 PM and you can see mountains of books in all subjects and topics.

The famous Ghosha Hospital (now Kasturba Gandhi Hospital) is on the Pycrofts Road. More on this hospital later. 

Cross the Pycroft road junction, you will see the grand edifice of Presidency College. First started as a preparatory school in Egmore in 1840, and then a High school, it became a college in 1853. The college moved to Marina in 1870. Became a co-ed college in 1889. Rajaji, Sir CV Raman, Dr Chandrasekar are some of its distinguished alumni. It is  a sprawling complex.

Next to it is PWD building (Water Resources Organisation) and then comes தமிழ்நாடு குடிநீர் வாரியம். Then it is எழிலகம் (State Govt offices).

Adjoining Ezhilagam is the Walaja Road. The famous statue of Triumph of Labour (உழைப்பாளர் சிலை) is across this junction. To the south of Walaja road is the Chepauk Palace, the Chepauk Cricket stadium (MA Chidambaram Stadium), and the Chepauk railway station. (you can not see these from the beach road).Next to the Labour statue are the memorials (சமாதிகள்) of MG Ramachandran, and Annadurai.


On the north side of Walaja road are the galaxy of Madras University buildings. A statue of Queen Victoria still adorns this vast complex. The university buildings were constructed on one half of the Chepauk palace on the north of Walajah road. The University was incorporated in 1857. The university moved into Senate House, in 1879. Senate House is a work of a sheer genius, with four halls inside. It was renovated in 2007. It is undoubtedly one of the most striking buildings of Madras. Between the Senate House and the Library, there came the Centenary Building (1961) where the VC has his offices.

The last building is the University Library (1936). At the end of this building is Swami Sivananda Salai, where the offices of VSNL and Doordarshan are located.

Continuing on the Beach road, now we cross the dirty, stagnant, foul-smelling Cooum river, over the Napier Bridge (originally constructed in 1943, now renovated in Feb 2000). Between the beach road on the east, Sivananda Salai on the south, Mount road on the west, and Flag Staff road on the north, is the Island Grounds. Madras Port offices are on the sea side here.

Next is the Flag staff road and at this junction, there is the Victory War Memorial (WW I), and a statue of King George V. Kamarajar Salai ceases at this point and Rajaji Salai takes over from here.

Fort St George is on the left. The Secretariat and Madras Legislative Assembly (தமிழக அரசு தலைமையகம்) are inside the Fort (நாமக்கல் கவிஞர் மாளிகை) A little away from this Fort complex, to the north, is Reserve Bank of India.

Rajaji Salai continues further, but we will stop here.

rajappa
0700AM on 20 Oct 2009
** Most of the material taken from MADRAS REDISCOVERED by S. Muthaiah. My grateful thanks to him.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Kumar-Lalitha Sashti Aptha Poorthy

Kumar celebrated his Sashti Aptha Poorthy (60th birthday) on 03 June 2009 at Annanagar West. Rudra Ekadasi was performed at 05:00 AM; we didn't attend this. Ganesan had come from Mumbai on 2nd June afternoon 1:30 PM and he stayed with us. Ramani came by train on 2nd morning and he stayed with Lalitha at Avadi. On 3rd, we two and Ganesan took ARUN's car with a driver and went to Annanagar by 0815. The rituals were going on already. Indira, Sruthi, Akila, Raja, Aparna, Jyotsna were already there. Later, Saroja, Athimber came. Gayathri, Sowmya, Sriram came with Sudha and her inlaws in a calltaxi. Krithika came with Aditi in their car, with a driver. Arvind took ill suddenly, so he couldn't come. TSG and mami came. The function was a nice one; it was over by 1215 PM. After lunch all of us started leaving. We were home by 2-15PM. rajappa 11:00 am on 6 June 2009

TRVG's daughter's Marriage

TR Venugopal is known to us since 1971 from our Poona days. He is now Senior Accounts officer at DMRL, Hyderabad. He performed the marriage of his daughter JANANI with Natarajan at Nanganallur Chennai on Sunday, 10th July 2011. Vijaya and I attended it. Venugopal on the right, his wife Saraswathi on the left We left house at 6-10 AM in Wagon-R and reached the Rama Mandiram Kalyana Mandapam at Nanganallur by 6-50. The Mandapam is just next to the Anjaneyar Koil. There we met my former colleagues at ERDL Cell, DRDL Hyd. Ganesan, Nair, Jagadeesan, Saibaba, Subba Reddy, Srinivasa Reddy, S Venugopala Murthy, Venkataramaiah, Ramakrishnaiah, Kaleeswaran, Mohan Rao, Rangarajan etc; they had come with their wives. Ganesan and his wife Gomathi with us NAIR (behind Vijaya) his daughter PREETHI (next to Vijaya) Preethi's husband (Airforce, Agra) is also seen. Venkataramaiah, Srinivas Reddy, Ramakrishnaiah, ME, SVG Murthy, his wife Vijaya, Saibaba's wife, Saibaba Ramalakshmi, now a

Anna Centenary Library, Kotturpuram

ANNA CENTENARY LIBARARY (அண்ணா நூற்றாண்டு நூலகம்) is a newly established State Library of Tamilnadu. It was declared open on 15th Sept 2010. Located in Kotturpuram, Chennai. This last Sunday, 1st May 2011, we hit upon the idea - we will go and see this library. No serious reason, but a sudden whiff of fancy. Vijaya, her old classmate and friend Mrs Prema, and I left house at 3-30PM. A bus upto Madhya Kailash, and an auto thereon, left us at the gates of this huge, beautiful building at 4 PM. From the outside, it was immensely impressive and imposing - maybe of 9 or 10 floors, exquisitely constructed. As we walked the lawns to reach the Main Entrance, the interest in us was bubbling. (Caution: Handbags, Cameras are strictly prohibited. Even waterbottles are not allowed inside the halls.) There is a 5-feet bronze statue of Mr CN Annadurai, in whose name and honour this library is built. This is the Tamilnadu Chief minister Mr M Karunanidhi's pet project and he, as usual, has ov